Oriental Taste, Northampton

💙💙 | $ | Chinese two-course lunch specials—e.g. pork with chili pepper, ma po tofu—come with soup and rice, and they’re priced like gifts, under ten dollars a person. But don’t stop there: a lot of the more authentic à-la-carte dishes at Oriental Taste are fire. Their cumin lamb, for example, is one of my favorite things to eat in the world. Also great are boiled beef, boiled fish, and juicy, golden-fried “Special Sichuan Spicy Chicken,” tossed with crispy red chilies. They’re open late, too.

Easily the best Chinese restaurant in Northampton, Oriental Taste is a simply decorated space with high ceilings. I like the tables by the front windows, from which you can watch the bustle of Main Street.

The menu’s real firepower is found in a section called “Chef’s Special Dishes.” A great party dish that feeds two or three people is “spicy grilled whole fish,” which comes to the table bubbling in a giant metal tray with a burner under it, swimming in a red-colored broth with generous portions of cabbage, lotus, and other Chinese vegetables.

Beef in hot and sour pickle broth and cumin lamb, Oriental Taste, Northampton, MA (photo: Robin Goldstein)

The kitchen makes great use of ma la, and you can’t go wrong with any menu item that includes the word “Sichuan.” Beef in hot and sour pickle broth and dry-braised dishes hit the spot, as does red-cooked pork, a Taiwanese specialty of rich, fatty belly meat slow-braised and deeply infused with flavors of soy sauce and five spice.

Ma la fish, Oriental Taste, Northampton, MA (photo: Robin Goldstein)

Oriental Taste is also one of the city’s best-value lunch options. Every “Chinese Lunch Special” rings in at under ten dollars, including soup and rice. Pork or beef with wild chili. There are plenty of great vegetarian options on this list, including ma po tofu with Sichuan peppercorns and shredded potato with chili—China’s answer to hash browns.

There’s also decent sushi and pan-Asian here, if that’s what you’re craving, but you’d be missing out on the really good, authentic stuff.

Chef’s special dishes, Oriental Taste, Northampton, MA, USA
Special cool dishes, Oriental Taste, Northampton, MA, USA. Try cucumber salad, cold Sichuan-style chicken appetizer, and fu-chi fei pien.

The wine list is not broad, but it’s one of the best values in town. There’s not a single bottle over $30, and everything is marked up to no more than about twice what you’d pay in a wine store—a departure from the 3–4x that you’ll see at so many restaurants.

Good-value wine list, Oriental Taste, Northampton, MA, USA

Xi Wu Bar & Café (Xi Wu Jiu Ba 隙屋酒吧)

💙💙💙 This indoor-outdoor café-bar in Jing’s childhood neighborhood had been around for more than eight years when we first stumbled across it. The shaded hipster garden is a work of outsider art. Hanging lanterns, spinning pinwheels, bric-a-brac, and eclectic music give the place a French-Corner-of-Kulangsu feel. Drinks are expensive, but there’s a full range of designer whiskies and Goose Island IPA. There’s cool vintage jewelry and home-made souvenirs at reasonable prices at the shop in the garden, where the young geniuses who run the establishment also live.

For more Kulangsu travel ideas, see the new Kulangsu Island Visitor’s Guide.

Canaan D Cocktail Bar (迦南D)

💙💙💙 In New York, it was Milk & Honey. In Houston, it was Anvil. On Kulangsu, the next-generation cocktail culture has been shaped by a genuine, hard-working man named Gino, an island native who (in addition to being a star attacker for a semi-pro soccer team) has raised the local mixology bar forever.

Gino is about as serious about his drinks as anyone on the planet, but the decor in his dim speakeasy-style haunt is playful, too–especially the upstairs, whose darts, bric-a-brac furniture, and wainscoting give the place the look of a 1970s rec room repurposed by Brooklyn hipsters.

Thankfully, Gino’s no hipster–he’s a Kulangsu native, which is pretty much the opposite–but he does speak some English, and more importantly, he’s fluent in the international language of alcohol: just name your base spirit and leave the rest to the artist. Tricked-out cocktails aren’t cheap, but the labor and material costs are extraordinary, whether it’s dry ice, smoking wood shrubs, obscure spirits practically unavailable in China, or a Ramos Gin Fizz that needs to be shaken for a full five minutes.

Gino’s thoughtful and futuristic glassings and glass-platings are as unpredictable as his late-night hours. Come ready to be surprised, whether it’s by a perfectly spherical ice cube the size of a baseball or a steaming bowl of pork-bone broth just when you need it most.

For more Kulangsu (Gulangyu) travel ideas, see the new Kulangsu Island Visitor’s Guide.

Weibo Bar (围脖酒吧 Weibo Jiu Ba)

💙 American hip hop and R&B greet you as you walk into this dark, eclectically decorated haunt, whose name means “scarf bar”–no relation to the Weibo that was China’s answer to Facebook before Tencent’s Wechat took over the entire Chinese ether.

Weibo Bar features a periodic one-man live music show at the keyboard/mic station in the midst of things, but the real highlight of the interior is the movie screen, which plays comedies with their soundtracks pumped through the excellent sound system by day and serves as a visual accompaniment to the live and canned tunes by night.

A set-menu lunch features Western dishes like steak. The cocktail selection is standard, but there’s unspoiled Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon on offer, and a Tiger beer tap is coming soon. In the meantime you’ll have to settle for bottled Tsingtao, Bud, or Heineken. Amongst the bar snacks, don’t miss the cucumbers with a wasabi-soy dipping sauce (芥末青瓜, jie mo qing gua), which will clear out your sinuses in short order, thus enabling you to stay until the bar’s 2am closing time before resting up for the next morning’s 9:30am opening time.

For more Kulangsu (Gulangyu) travel ideas, see the new Kulangsu Island Visitor’s Guide.